Posts Tagged ‘womens’

Aesthetics and morbid stories

Thursday, April 1st, 2010

Women
Lines and shadows of the body act as a starting point in Whyred’s SS10 collection where cuts and prints clearly put anatomy into focus. Inspired by the films of Peter Greenway with his unique aesthetics and morbid stories; Whyred uses bones, blood veins and magnified skin structure to emphasize the raw aesthetics of life and death while looser slinky materials sensually bring out the shape of the body.

The look is neo-minimalistic with a clean and modern impression striking a chord to the 90’s fashion and pop culture. A minimized amount of cuts – only employed to emphasize specific body parts or shapes – hidden buttons and simple details contribute to the clean look.

The revival of the 90’s is also evident in the blazer inspired dresses, distinct silver zips and transparent details. The silhouette continues to play with contrasts; narrow bottom/wide top or vice versa were the fluidity of the fabric often causes the garments to drape around the body. A spacious transparent vein print dress is perfectly paired with a tight cat suit for late cocktail hours. Whilst an oversized blouse under a collarless solid wool mix jacket offer a characteristic Whyred girl everyday look when matched together with a pair of three-colour block striped denims.

A slight carrot shape also makes its way into the collection presenting a round shape coat with dolman sleeves which sits nicely over an emerald green blazer-dress in soft cupro and tights covered with a large number of small silver squares. Vaguely rotund trousers teamedwith a semi tailored couture blazer with super sharp shoulders and corset craft toaccentuate the waist and hips unmistakably flirts with the powerful outfits in the Greenway signature film “The Cook, the Thief, his Wife and her Lover”.

Shoes and accessories
The shoe collection offers sexy high heels with shiny silver details and three cm platforms, either covered or in solid wood. Attention is especially drawn to high heels in emerald green plexiglass and knee-high boots with detachable legs. Super slim flat sandals in leather or nylon are perfect for the summer heat while a modern brogue shoe and a desert boot in nubuck find inspiration from men’s classics. The bags are small and elaborated, and come with embossed vein patterns, skin structure prints and sharp silver details. A black and white skin structure printed scarf complete the accessories collection.

Materials
The materials show a living or shimmering surface achieved through different treatments, weaving or printing techniques, such as pigment dyeing and devoré printing. Natural and man-made materials are given equal attention: chiffon, viscose and cupro for a truly fluid look as well as nylon, wool blends and cotton amongst other.

Colours
The colour palette is composed and monochrome dominated by black, light hues of grey and beige, and different whites ranging from optical white to marshmallow-white. A subtle colour injection is given by the sophisticated accents emerald green, violet navy and silver.

Men
Lines and shadows of the body act as a starting point in Whyred’s SS10 collection where cuts and prints clearly put anatomy into focus. Inspired by the films of Peter Greenway with his unique aesthetics and morbid stories; Whyred uses collar-bone cuts, blood veins and magnified skin structure prints to emphasize the raw aesthetics of life and death while looser flaccid materials bring out the shape of the body in an out of focus way.

The look is neo-minimalistic with a clean and modern impression striking a chord to the 90’s fashion and pop culture bringing Whyred back to its roots. A minimized amount of cuts – only employed to emphasize specific body parts or shapes – hidden buttons and simple details contribute to the clean look. The revival of the 90’s is also evident in the slick silhouette featuring boxy square top with narrow bottom.
Coats are shorter with high collars and trousers are slim in stretch material. A clean cut nylon coat together with tight two-colour trousers exemplify this look and come in pigment dyed materials – a mottled surface evident throughout the collection. Skinny stretch trousers sit perfectly together with boxy biker inspired nylon jackets and long cardigans were the emerald green paper fiber version give a futuristic injection. Swap the cardigan for a stained jacquard jersey shirt and the jacket for a leather/nylon blazer and the indie-cool Whyred look is complete.

A key styling option is the from-top-to-toe white outfit clearly flirting with the Greenway signature film “The Cook, the Thief, his Wife and her Lover” with its bold monochrome spatial images. Mixing different kinds of white offer a more interesting look: a marshmallowwhite slinky cupro blazer with matching trousers together with an optical white shirt.
For late cocktail hours the collection offers a black smoking inspired blazer in cool wool mix looking like two blazers put together with double lapels and cuff details. This is matched with a white shirt and Jodhpur inspired trousers – loose by the thighs and slim by the calves.
Shoes and accessories
The materials used are leather, nylon, canvas and nubuck; often mixed together, yet in a monochrome colour combination. The shoe collection ranges from minimalistic laced shoes and classic desert boots to slick trainers and high-tops. A general feature in all outfits is shoes without socks. Bags are practical offering computer bags and a typical 90’s pannier as well as a set of skin structure printed leathers such as a slim computer brief and
different kinds of wallets.

Materials
The materials show a living and shimmering surface achieved through different treatments such as pigment dyeing, weaving or printing techniques. Nylon and other man-made fabrics are widely used in the collection for a more hi-tech look and feel but natural materials such as wool blends, cotton and leather are still important players.

Colours
The colour palette is composed and monochrome dominated by black, light hues of grey and beige, and different whites ranging from optical white to marshmallow-white. A subtle colour injection is given by the sophisticated accents emerald green, violet navy and silver.

 

How to tell a story without a plot….

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Fifth avenue shoe repair Spring 2010 collection withholds two contradicting themes.

First: very down to earth, holding soft colour tones and washed hand feel.  By over-dyeing garments in double weave linens, parachute poplins and cashmere jerseys our ambition has been to achieve a “close to earth” expression. We call this the human part of the collection.
Second: the complete opposite; a colourful fairytale landscape with multiflower patterns and shapes without boundaries. With extra everything we defy the minimalist and give you the maximalist. A strong floral and eccentric palette of vibrant colours constitute our surreal, beautiful and alien part of the collection. This is the non human part of the collection.

The two elements co-exists in the same way flower and weed nurture from the ground – needing each other to survive or to even exist.
We present this collection based on characters. We bring them out in the collection, each character explaining and telling their unique story. Combined they create a snapshot, a story of our every day life in which we all take a part in creating.

The storyteller an observing and interfering character, pushing and forcing us towards change and progression. Always with good intention. The collector a lover of things. He borrows your belongings, collects them, steals them and at the same time captures a little bit of you in his collection.  The peace maker once a warrior. Now he is older and wiser, not so aggressive as he once was. He wants to teach you to not make the same mistakes he once have made.

The traveller searches the truth, always looking for movement. The most important thing is to depart, not to arrive. The doll once human, too much in love with things. Now she has transformed into a non human fairytale object. The geisha a fairytale version of a human, easily mistaken for being evil. She is wise and observing, always following her tone.

1930’s Deauville and 1980’s Florida

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Women
The relaxed, glamourous atmosphere of 1930’s Deauville has inspired elegant pieces such as bias-cut flowing dinner dresses and a masculine, yet sensual, tuxedo jacket. Coco Chanel, with her elegant and casual sense of style as well as the ability to mix masculine and feminine pieces, has been a great influence in creating a fresh look still so relevant today. Sweaters with classic French stripes and a summer peacoat jacket in soft wrinkled linen are smart garments for a refined look.

For the more powerful edge, Filippa K has found inspiration in vintage French Elle magazines of the 1980’s where an energetic vibe dominated and women were portrayed as strong, free and athletic. The comfort of jersey fabrics has always been part of our design and this season we are re-discovering figure-hugging dresses in firm jersey, as well as corset tops and one-shoulder styles in bright colours and shiny materials.
To continue the power chic look, shoulders are an important focus. Hence, a distinct shoulder is seen on tailored jackets and coats as well as fine knits and evening jerseys. The exaggerated pagoda style shoulders gives edge to a sharp chic coat as well as a tuxedo jacket.

Pantsuits in different versions are in focus this season; in washed silk with rolled up sleeves for daytime, strapless, shiny jersey style for partying and printed chiffon with wide flowing legs for evening elegance.

Prints are feminine, either abstract with uneven spots in summery colours or graphic and delicate. As we cannot seem to get enough of stripes, two-tone stripes can be found on jersey tops, knitwear and even vertical stripes for summer dresses.
Colours are bright and vibrant, with Royal Blue, Coral Pink, Sunshine Yellow, Turquoise and Jewel Green, set against a backdrop of greys, beiges, navy, white & black.

Men
Florida of the 1980’s with its easy-going mood and breezy feel has been a major source of inspiration. The juxtaposition of masculinity, lightness and playfulness in colour and cut, gives a look that is sensual yet manly and relaxed with a hint of glamour. Softly tailored suits mixed with casual t-shirts and espadrille style shoes sums up the mood.

To get that crumpled laid back look, most of the fabrics are pre-washed. The casual look can be found on cotton summer suits, as well as shirts ranging from classic white styles with rolled up sleeves to brighter tropical check patterns and sand washed silk. Jersey tops are either relaxed pastel t-shirt styles with generous necklines and button fronts or more sophisticated with collars and detailing. Linen is a summer favourite, ranging from sloppy knits and jersey tops to elegant summer suits.

Colours are unusually bright and fun, infusing energy into classic pieces. Tones ranging from Swimming Pool Turquoise, Spearmint Green, Candy Pink to Canary Yellow are set against a backdrop of neutral beiges, greys, navy, black and white.

Sensations of the Ordinary

Tuesday, November 25th, 2008

Being a master of portraying paradoxical characters, Alfred Hitchcock has acted as the ideal muse. The type of character presented in the new look is a contradistinctive mix between a clean and a preppy Cary Grant in the film North by Northwest on the one hand and bohemian modernistic styles of Ingmar Bergman or the mad genius Syd Barrett on the other. The result is a transformal man with a customised and well dressed base messed up with contrasting chunky and colourful details.

Being the ultimate symbol of a paradoxcharacter, Marilyn Monroe is the ideal muse this season. The fabricated Hollywood image of a glamorous sex symbol stands in complete contrast to her private saddened and dishevelled self. Inspiration is also found in strong and complex Hitchcock-women, and the type of character presented in the new look is a ballsy go-ahead heroine with the ability to reinvent herself for everyday adventures.

Past generation´s vision of the future

Tuesday, November 25th, 2008

Decorated and ornamented details characterize the look of Autumn 2008. The shapes are sculptured and built in to volume by using padding techniques. You find seemingly chaotic rope structures evolving into cable like details. The softness of braided ornaments contrasts to broken pleats inspired by deconstructed glass buildings. Technical features in choice of materials, however accentuated by technical accessories such as deconstructed metal zippers used to decorate. The women’s collection is gently deconstructured, softness in shapes and materials. In combination we have challenged manufacturing by adding traditional men’s tailoring in women’s coats. Width and volume is the silhouette, often created by doubling the fabric. The men’s collection contain many garments where the style is doubled or stands as a hybrid between garments -- a play with definitions. The colours; black and white with a deep emerald green as an accent together with skin tones, sand and winter white.

Punky 70’s elegance from Filippa K

Tuesday, November 25th, 2008

This is a very exciting collection for us, influenced by early seventies England and full of funky contrasts between early punk and classic English refinement, with a dash of humor and sense of not taking yourself too seriously. Imagine a stylish young Lord or Lady in the early seventies who’s gone totally punk. Inspired by Velvet Underground’s singer Nico, the Filippa K Woman collection is a style conscious fusion of masculine and feminine elements, letting rebellious punk meet girlish sensuality in the clean, simple design language we associate with Filippa K Woman. The theme for the Filippa K Man collection is rough elegance. Mixing the classic English with the early days of punk, in its subtler “The Clash” variation with slim fits and playful mix of patterns, rather than hardcore safety pins and shiny studs. All brought together by the marquee sense of Filippa K simplicity.

Clean living under difficult circumstances

Sunday, November 9th, 2008

Inspiration is always drawn from the iconic style of the 1960s Mods and an expression taken from The Who’s manager, Pete Meaden represents the Whyred design philosophy; “Clean living under difficult circumstances”. Faithful to the simplicity of post-modern aesthetics, Whyred creates classic, wearable designs with a modern twist that have become signature staples.